Review: Nel's Story Of Christmas

Nel Restaurant’s indulgent new menu - The Story of Christmas - is here to kick off the merriest season of them all.

Acclaimed Chef Nelly Robinson’s ambitions know no bounds. From experimental chef’s table evenings alongside a rotating lineup of guest chefs to flying abroad to curate exclusive dinners at some of the world’s most prestigious venues, he’s constantly pushing the boundaries of creativity. And on top of all this, Nelly still manages to unveil a brand-new seasonal menu at his inner-Sydney restaurant, Nel.

His last menu, Fine, Fast, Food, saw fast food favourites like biryani, margherita pizza and cheeseburgers reinvented into fine-dining masterpieces. I still find my train of thought wandering back to some of those dishes today - the succulence of the cheeseburger, the depth of flavour in the biryani broth… a truly memorable experience.

As carols begin to play and Christmas lights appear, so does Nelly Robinson’s latest menu, The Story of Christmas. This year’s iteration brings influences from around the globe, blending traditional flavours with bold innovation for a genuinely memorable 12-course journey. It’s a hearty, generous menu, so I encourage you to come hungry. It’s divided into three parts: starters, mains, and then the sweet stuff.

For me, the beginning of the menu held the true showstoppers. The Summer Pine - a savoury sorbet of pineapple, green chilli and coriander wrapped in a dolmades leaf - is bright, cold, and unexpected.

Then the smørrebrød arrives: clever variations of perfectly seasoned egg, topped with a melt-in-your-mouth gel and red caviar that brighten and balance the plate.

From here, the menu gets more robust, offering dishes that showcase incredible craftsmanship without ever feeling overworked. It starts with a beautiful borscht - true liquid gold. Lift the lid and a wave of aroma rolls out, followed by a curl of smoke that sets the stage for a broth packed with depth and warmth.

Next come the Mince Pies, filled with the best ragu I’ve tasted in a long time: rich, slow-cooked and incredibly satisfying.

And then an undeniable showstopper, the Christmas Carrots. Presented as a single, perfect carrot, it’s actually a clever mix of textures and flavours, all revealed with a touch of theatre at the table. It’s smart, playful cooking that never forgets to be delicious.

To wrap things up, the desserts deliver a perfectly festive finale. The cherry and custard tart takes centre stage, telling the story of Christmas in every bite. A Christmas-spiced custard sits in a delicate pastry shell, crowned with juicy cherries soaked in warming mulled syrup, then finished at the table with a gentle flurry of icing-sugar “snow.”

To close the meal on a comforting note, a spiced ginger and cranberry cookie adds just the right balance of sweetness and warmth - a simple, satisfying end to a thoughtfully crafted menu.

“This menu is about nostalgia, tradition, and fun,” says Chef Nelly. “We’re drawing inspiration from history, from childhood memories, and from cultures across the globe - all with our own cheeky NEL twist. We’re inclusive too – for the naughty and the nice!”

This exquisite 12-course degustation menu is $195pp, and I highly recommend the matched wine journey for $165pp, or the $95pp non-alcoholic pairing. Available for a limited time only, now until Tuesday, December 23.

*NEL will also open Monday, December 21 for dinner, and for lunch on selected Fridays and Saturdays in December.