Fine, Fast, Food at NEL

Sydney chef, Nelly Robinson, is serving up fast food with a fine dining twist at NEL Restaurant.

If you haven’t yet descended the stairs at 75 Wentworth St into the belly of NEL, you are truly missing out. Affectionately known as the bunker, this underground dining room has long been one of Sydney’s most beloved fine-dining destinations. Chef Nelly Robinson, who we interviewed in 2010 Issue #11, has built his reputation on creating boundary-pushing menus that are as theatrical as they are delicious - and his newest concept, Fine Fast Food, is no exception.

The idea is simple but brilliant: take the world’s favourite takeaway classics and elevate them into exuberant fine-dining creations. The twelve course menu is meticulously crafted, divided into three playful chapters - snacks, mains and the sweet stuff - with each course designed to surprise, delight, and captivate the senses.

From the very first bite, it’s clear you’re in for something special. You start your journey with the humble Panipuri, a delicate, crisp sphere, arrives with a broth so rich and layered it might have been one of the most memorable spoonfuls of the evening. Later, the Biryani course delivers another broth masterclass — creamy, aromatic, and deeply comforting, with flavours that lingered long after I’d lifted the mug to my lips to savour the last drop. There is also a clever take on the Margarita Pizza that will leave you begging for another slice.

As the meal unfolds, the dishes shift in tone, moving from whimsical bites to more substantial, indulgent creations. A standout moment comes in the form of a reimagined cheeseburger. Presented in two acts, the first is a single, bite-sized morsel - small in stature but bursting with the flavours. The second course reveals butter-soft wagyu beef, paired with all the familiar trimmings of a burger, and executed with finesse and precision only NEL can deliver. It’s clever, nostalgic, and indulgent all at once.

Dessert is where the fun truly peaks. Starting with a seemingly simple glazed donut, but one bite reveals a filling that’s anything but ordinary. There's also an incredible take on the classic Strawberry Milkshake - but you won't need a straw for this one. Then the grand finale which is delivered right to your table: the NEL Sweet Shop. Diners are invited to choose two indulgent treats to enjoy on the spot or take home in a signature NEL Sweet Shop bag.

The Menu is enhanced further by the wine pairing, with each drop thoughtfully matched and introduced by the attentive floor team. Or, indulge in one of the expertly crafted cocktails; The Spider was a favourite at our table. 

But it’s not just the food that leaves a lasting impression at NEL. The bunker-esque setting, the sense of theatre in every course, and the sheer imagination behind the menu all combine to make NEL one of Sydney’s most unforgettable degustation experiences. Fine Fast Food is playful, surprising, and exquisitely executed — a testament to Robinson’s knack for turning the ordinary into the extraordinary.

Fine, Fast, Food ($185pp) NEL Restaurant 75 Wentworth St, Sydney

nelrestaurant.com.au